Midsummer travelers to this upstate New York town come either for the waters and stay for the horses, or vice versa. It’s a winning perfecta regardless, as Saratoga Springs delivers both spa days and race days with equal finesse. A perennial destination of the affluent and the artistic, it still retains an almost Rockwellian air, especially the Broadway district. The historic brick and stone edifices house a parade of restaurants and curiosity shops that are as inviting as the possibilities a bit farther afield...